What's It Really Like?

A friend asked - What's it like there? She's someone who likes details, so I started looking around.

There are rolling hills - some steeper than others, in every direction and there are groves of trees here and there, mostly around the homesteads. But for the most part, the view is clear in every direction for a long way. The dirt road winds up and down the hillsides between the fields that will soon be planted, mostly with maize. Smaller, but just as distinct, are paths between homesteads rivers. Most homesteads also raise gardens for the family and/or to sell to the community. They don't have vegetable stands, rather, people just know who is selling what, and ask to buy things. Water is a HUGE issue here - so crops must be drought resistant, or near a water source that can be accessed. That's not as easy as it sounds, as pumps and waterlines cost money that most people don't have. There are community funds, but accessing them seems to be somewhat difficult, and the funds run out part way through the year. There are groups who are encouraging permagardening, but getting the information out doesn't seem to be happening very rapidly. It calls for change, and as we all know, that is not easy.

So - water. There are creeks, called rivers, and they may well be rivers in the rainy season, but for now they move slowly and are most shallow. There are a few springs, as well. There are community taps that come from community tanks, but as I wrote earlier, the taps go dry, and people spend a lot of time and energy hauling water from the springs (to drink) and the river (to wash). Taking more of that water for crops could be problematical - I don't know.

The rainy season is coming, and I think it will bring water and mud and mosquitoes. I have heard the roads sometimes become impassable due to their steepness and muddiness and that they cross the rivers that can flood. It will be interesting to see how it all fits together.

Transportation and communication are irregular. Though busses and khombis are available, the schedules are so flexible as to be almost non-existent, and the vehicles are old and extremely unreliable. Because the roads are dirt, washboard and uneven, busses break down and/or may not run at all. I waited an hour and a half for a bus one day, and have waited more than an hour on more than one occasion.

Although cell phones are everywhere, it's ridiculously expensive to make calls (about 18 US cents a minute). So calls tend to be short, and avoided if possible. Whatsapp provides text for very little data time, but that means people must purchase a phone capable of connecting to the internet, and then have enough money to purchase air time and data time.   There aren't really street names and addresses... so snail mail isn't an option. The landlines are not easy to get, and the wires are very old, so don't really support internet access. That leaves walking as the only truly reliable mode of transportation. Of course, that means there are always lots of people out walking, so it's a good way to interact.

Much of the land belongs to homesteads - sort of. Land ownership is tricky because, if I understand correctly, most of the land actually belongs to the king, who allows people to live on it and use it. Usually, as long as it is being used, it "belongs" to the people living on it. But it can't be left unused if someone else wants to use it. So - no fields lying fallow because the owners are far away... Also, all that "communal" land (i.e., land which hasn't been assigned to anyone) is open for everyone to graze their cattle and goats and chickens. So it's totally common to see animals roaming everywhere, including the school grounds. Of course, that means manure piles, as well. And requires that gardens be fenced. I've been told that the cattle are kept fenced in when the maize is first planted - but am not sure everyone does that... The cattle all have ear tags, and it's the kids' job to bring them home every night. Each homestead has a specific whistle/sound for their livestock, and the animals respond only to that one. They come home easily since there are the cobs from the maize awaiting them.

Home. Homesteads. Usually a number of buildings, including an outdoor "traditional" kitchen called lidladla. Here, it is a room with a cement floor, walls on 2 sides, half walls on the other 2 sides, and a door in a side with a half wall. A fire is built here, for now of maize cobs and a little wood, and meals are cooked in three-legged pots. There's a kitchen next to it with a sink but no running water, cabinets and a table and benches. Depending on the homestead, there may be rooms that others live in, storage areas or only a few buildings.

Of course, since the road is not paved, the homesteads are not, either. Instead, a broom of switches is used to sweep the dirt. This keeps the debris picked up and the area clear of grasses that could become the home of snakes. Also, because there are no indigenous forests, all the trees here have been planted. Some are fruit trees, some just for shade, but most are located on or near the homesteads. This means that the roads have almost no shade in the summer, the views are open for miles in all directions, and there's nothing to stop or even slow the winds. The winds can howl alarmingly, and don't always mean rain. They cool things down, and carry a fine film of dust that coats everything. People here are very conscious of keeping things clean, so most sweep and or mop almost daily. Remember the hauled water and factor that in...

In fact, think about the open fires and wind and dust and lack of water, of latrines and livestock and all of that affecting hygiene. Creates challenges, for sure. Oh, and no garbage pick up. Of course the animals eat all the compostables, and paper and cardboard are used to start cook fires, but the glass, plastic and cans go into a garbage pile and are burned. Oh, so are the fields, before planting. Pollution in the air is dust, burning plastic and smoke, but not much from vehicles, except the busses.

Hygiene. It keeps coming back to water. Indoor water requires pipes, fittings, burying lines, a way to deal with waste water - septic tank and/or gray water lines. Friend Bright,  plumber, could describe the needs in much more detail, but it's not a stand-alone deal... And of course, it requires a reliable water source. If that's a well, it requires electricity to run the pump... And then electricity also requires a strong infrastructure. Here, the lines are above ground, so those strong winds mentioned earlier create power surges and outages that raise havoc with everything plugged in to the lines. So if water is not easily available, it makes the task of washing hands after contact with latrines, dirt, etc. more of a challenge. Which means education becomes more important. And it's not free.

This sounds so negative. And the problems are complex, it's true. But there are no homeless people.There are child-run households, orphanages, and a sense of community that is strong and supportive. I spoke yesterday with a member of the the Royal Swazi Police. We talked for a while before he shared his profession. He said that he attended training at an academy before he started work, and that much of what he does is help people solve problems. I asked about domestic abuse. He said if an abused woman comes in they ask her if she wants her husband taken away. If she says No, then they talk with both of them (separately, I hope, though forgot to ask). He said the men tend to listen to them since they are, after all, the police. They never turn anyone away without trying to help. What a different perspective...

So many other details that are becoming my norm. All of the kids have chores no matter how young. Even Beke, age 2, helps carry the cobs to the lidladla. The older boys (11 and 13) are responsible for hauling the water from the tap, bringing the livestock back at the end of the day, and other chores as they arise. I'm sure during planting and harvest time their duties increase. Everyone hauls his or her own bath water and does laundry. The young women are responsible for food planning and preparation, serving Make and Babe (who eat separately) and cleaning up. They also care for and supervise the children. The son helps with repairs, sweeps the dirt, cares for his children, keeps his own space clean and I'm sure has other responsibilities. Make and Babe both have responsibilities as well, and seem to be busy much of the time.

Most buildings are made of blocks covered with cement, with corrugated roof and cement floors. Windows have no screens. Most homesteads are fenced.

Kids are totally uninhibited about singing, and do so loudly and out of tune. They entertain themselves and each other with very little of what kids at home think is necessary. They are a constant delight.

Oh - and people think nothing of asking what are, to me, intensely personal questions. Do you have children? Why not? What church do you attend? It's most disconcerting.

I'm told Swazis know that all white people are rich, and seem to have no problem asking for money. I'm learning how to tell them that's rude, and ask if their family knows what they are doing - in siSwati, of course <grin>.

I've been teaching some career classes - most interesting. That's another blog, though. And I'm liking my tutor and assignments. She's helping me fit together the bits and pieces I'm beginning to understand.

Hope these glimpses are starting to make a whole picture for you readers. Next week I start the census - going to homesteads and talking with the people. I'm looking forward to that, and to sharing another level of life here.

Around the Homestead

Michele sent these to be posted.  She is recovering from a sore throat and laryngitis, so keep her in your thoughts and prayers. I'm sure she would appreciate emails as well.

Laundry day is a family affair

Even the school kids wash their own clothes.
From left to right, Nomila, Beketela and Siyabonga

Play doh is a big hit with these two beautiful young ladies.
They are going to break some hearts when they get older.
Nomile and Beke

 

Kids are kids are kids. Amazing what they can do with a little play doh... Beke is about to discover it will stick to the struts of what would be a chair back; they are using the seat as a table. Perfect height!

 

My bhuti, Linda, is trying to fix the roof for me before it rains again. The workmanship was so shoddy he couldn't make it stop leaking. Fortunately the next day was a scheduled visit from Peace Corps staff, who were appalled at the 'worst job they had ever seen'. The vendors who did the work will be asked to make it right. Hope it happens before the next storm <smile>.

  

And last, but not least, some days I opt for a "bucket bath" rather than a solar shower. I can bathe in about 2 1/2 liters of water (not washing hair). No water at the tap again for most of the week, so I'm being very careful. The method is to pour hot water from the kettle into the blue bowl, then add enough cool water from the bucket to make it comfortable. Wash face and neck. Dump the water into the big tub, refill and do upper half of body. Dump again and do lower half while standing in the big tub so my feet can get wet enough to get clean. Then either empty the bath water into the thunder bucket to clean it, or use the water to mop the floor (which I do when there's not water at the tap).